This approach to creating counter space is growing daily and will give identical appearance as some of the other more expensive counter top options. Using concrete on top of cabinetry or even a pass through shelve, can certainly change the look in any room or office. Outside of the concrete color or veining techniques, the mixing and pouring is essentially identical.
Here in this concrete counter form image with reinforced steel or rebar,
we have used 4" lag screws to anchor the #3 rebar, staggered every 24"O.C. The counter or shelve here is formed to 2" in depth and 12" wide with the length being 10' long between the two end points of the adjacent walls. Because it sits atop a 2x4 framed wall, it will cantilever 2" to the kitchen area and roughly 6" pass the other side of the same wall into the living room.
The image to the left here shows the importance of protecting the wood framing beneath with flashing paper to act as a moisture barrier and future dry-rotting adherent. The small spacers under our #3 rebar allows the new aggregate pour to completely surround the reinforcement steel for optimum strength.
DIY-Tools & Materials Needed for Your Counter Top Mix:
- plywood or melamine, plus screws to build the mold
- bagged countertop mix (or "scratch" mix below)
- dyes or pigment if you're coloring your countertop
- grinder / polisher with water feed (can be rented)
- diamond polishing discs of various grit
- Tupperware or similar sandwich containers to make concrete samples
- concrete mixer- concrete vibrating tool (can be rented)- dusts masks
- eye protection- ear protection
Pouring a concrete countertop is DIY project. Truthfully, it isn't like
curing cancer to mix and pour concrete well,
but... getting the mixture, the technique, and the finishing just right takes a little practice.
That's why it's a good idea to make
sample pours first so that you can get an idea what you're working with and how small variations in the concrete mix can make a difference.
Many people start with a premixed concrete countertop mix. They are specially formulated to be flowable and high strength with plasticizer that makes it flow well even at a low water / cement ratio.
A low water / cement ratio is
important for a good result that resists cracking. The Quikrete mix has high enough flow that the need for mechanical vibration is minimized, and it's made for minimal shrinkage.
Alternately, you could start with regular bagged concrete mix that is rated for a hardness of
5,000 psi or greater, available @ Home Depot or most of your home improvement centers.
Here is a counter top mix you can make "from scratch" that's enough to make a small test block and that can be scaled up by weight.
You can use a kitchen or postal scale to weigh out the sample measurements. It is recommended that you use white sand and white cement to maximize your color options:
Product / Weight in Grams
Portland Cement 210g
Sand 625g
Nycon G nylon fiber 1g
Metakaolin 30g
Fritz-Pak FR1 Water Reducer 5g
Water 80-90g
If you're using Quickrete Countertop Mix or Sackrete 5000, or some other pre-mixed countertop mix, start with about
875 grams of dry mix and about
85 grams of water to make a sample.
Whether you're using a bag concrete mix or my "scratch" concrete countertop recipe, use the smallest amount of water necessary to craft a mix that you can work with.
With color, try weighing out a small amount (a teaspoonful, for example) of the pigment and adding it to your sample.
Of course, you can only estimate how it's going to look once it's cured, but again, you have to start somewhere.
Write down how many grams of colorant you use in every batch so you'll have a basis for guessing how much more or less you need in subsequent samples and so you'll also know about how much you'll need for the final product once you get the color you want.
If you want a darker concrete countertop - all the way to a dark charcoal gray - start with
Home Depot's Quickrete Countertop Mix, which is darker than the scratch recipe above, and add charcoal colorant.
Start with one bottle per bag of concrete countertop mix when mixing the final countertop.
Of course you can still experiment with the colorant in your sample slabs.
After you've poured your sample, allowed it to set and removed it, ask yourself what's right and what's wrong about it.
Color will likely be the thing that determines what you should try next.
When you have a sample that pleases you, keep it and let it cure under conditions as close to the curing conditions of the final countertop as possible.
In fact, you should keep
all of your samples so you can try out your concrete polishing and sealing techniques on them. Once you have your sample smoothed to the finish you want, you can seal it, according to the directions or you can seal it with beeswax (which may not be the best at standing up to what the average kitchen countertop endures) or even pure tung oil (like what is used on wood). It depends on the final look you want.
that you wish to accomplish are within arms reach. The Bosch chipping hammer is paramount in helping get rid of the old and begin to realize your dreams. This little workhorse has saved us tons of time and sweat by doing the jackhammers job tenfold! 
Buying the right one is important to note here, typically an interior door will be 1 3/8" thick and exterior doors are thicker at 1 3/4". The anodized aluminum comes in several finishes so you can choose a match per the rest of the 
It's possible you may have to cut the door down a little, depending on the existing conditions. An accurate measurement is required to get the most out of your DIY Door sealing efforts, but on a scale of difficult being a 10, this door weather strip installation is rated at a 3. All products bought can vary so be sure to read the manufacturer's instructions first. Entry doors have that sweet closing sound with shutting and you will know the difference after your done. Snug as a bug...... Save money and our resources by doing it right the first time!
When a toilet begins to leak it can cause other problems within your bathroom including damage to your flooring or even the sub flooring depending how long the water has sat there. It can even destroy the ceiling and the frame work you have. Most times these sneaky leaks come from the fill valve or flush valve, but on a very rare case though it starts with cracks in the hairline tank.
